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Thread: Project Runway All Stars - October 25, 2012

  1. #16
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    In defense of Anthony Ryan and Christian Siriano, they are probably not taught that in school, and I don't know A.R.'s background, but Christian apprenticed with Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen--cutting-edge couturiers who don't really design for ordinary folk. By contrast, people like Ivy and Rami design for actual people who walk in the door. Unfortunately, Anthony Ryan's soldier was unusually curvy, and she asked for strapless. He had everything going against him! It would have taken some demon tailoring to make that combination work, and I'm not sure he had the time or the inner resources to see it through. I was terrified that they'd send him home, because he's been so good, but thank goodness the judges and the producers thought better of sending anyone home.

    Ulli had a kind of easy time this week, because her soldier had a nice figure and specifically asked for a dress like the one Ulli had made for herself! On those grounds, though I love Ulli, I'm glad they gave Joshua first place this week, because he came up with such a felicitous dress for his soldier and managed to comply with her wishes as well as to reflect his own personality.

    One thing that really pleased me was that despite the problems with Anthony Ryan's dress, the judges were so supportive while the women were standing there, and they were completely diplomatic about how everyone looked. In a situation with real women as opposed to models, this is how the judges should conduct themselves. I am always a bit anxious about how Heidi, who tends to want to stir up a bit of drama (for ratings purposes I'm sure, not because she's a mean person in everyday life), will bring up these issues, and that often leads to the designer saying something tactless. It happened with Venn, and it happened years ago with Jeffrey and Angela's mother. In this situation, they absolutely made the veterans feel like princesses on national TV, and that was the way to do it.

    By the way, I thought Katie Holmes did a good job. Remember that she filmed this segment quite awhile ago, just after she had split with Tom Cruise, so this was one of her first public outings. She definitely showed maturity and poise. I'm not particularly a fan of hers--I've not seen anything that makes her a standout as an actress--but if this appearance is any indication, she might grow on me.
    Last edited by Olympia; 01-04-2013 at 07:52 PM.

  2. #17
    Figure Skating Is A Dangerous Sport Dee4707's Avatar
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    Did you notice Isaac's eyeroll when Katie was talking???

  3. #18
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    No! I totally missed that.

    It must be tough for a hardworking garmento like Mizrahi or Michael Kors to be introduced to these celebrity "designers" who supposedly have a clothing line but don't really know what it takes to grind away day after day on the details of a real design business: choice of fabric, what's selling this year, which jobbers to use for supplies, how to tailor a collar or a sleeve. I remember once watching one of those real housewives shows because our Michael Knight was announced as a guest on that episode. One of the pampered women acquired a consultation with Michael. She was starting a clothing line. It turns out that someone else sewed the clothes and even chose the fabric. I'm not sure whether this woman's "designing" went past a few pencil sketches. Of course things turned out poorly. Michael, ever the gentleman, said in a restrained voice that if you're going to design a line, you should at least choose your own fabrics.

    I don't know how active Katie Holmes is in the execution of her own line, but I'm sure she couldn't walk into Mizrahi's atelier and create a frock on the dress form. But Mizrahi could probably walk into Holmes and Yang and run up a little something on the machine.

  4. #19
    Figure Skating Is A Dangerous Sport Dee4707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olympia View Post
    No! I totally missed that.

    I remember once watching one of those real housewives shows because our Michael Knight was announced as a guest on that episode. One of the pampered women acquired a consultation with Michael. She was starting a clothing line. It turns out that someone else sewed the clothes and even chose the fabric. I'm not sure whether this woman's "designing" went past a few pencil sketches. Of course things turned out poorly. Michael, ever the gentleman, said in a restrained voice that if you're going to design a line, you should at least choose your own fabrics.
    As I started reading your post, I thought of the same scene. I don't remember if Sheree Whitfield even sketched. If she didn't I don't know how you could call those your designs. How do you get your vision across??? How do you birth the line???

    Quote Originally Posted by Olympia
    I don't know how active Katie Holmes is in the execution of her own line, but I'm sure she couldn't walk into Mizrahi's atelier and create a frock on the dress form. But Mizrahi could probably walk into Holmes and Yang and run up a little something on the machine.
    So true...and I think Isaac let her know that in a gentle way. I found her to be a little arrogant about the designs. I thought Anthony Ryan's dress was terrible....I think cinching at the waist made her look even bigger. I think even with her larger bust an Uli type dress would have looked good.

  5. #20
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    I think some celebrities are more involved in their lines than others - i.e. Jessica Simpson, the Oleson Twins, etc. Katie Holmes doesn't have the same level of experience as Isaak, but I do think she's more than a figure head. Also, she's collaborating with someone else who likely has more design experience. Fashion is in the eye of the beholder; so, disregarding someone else's differing opinion isn't cool either.

    Anthony Ryan's dress design was not good. It didn't do what she wanted and it didn't make her more attractive. Definitely a miss-steop by AR. I thought Katie's comment that the straps could've used some embellishment was correct as it could've brought the eyes up towards her face - away from the banding above and below her bust line. Without the banding below the bust, it would've looked like she ws wearing a curtain - the dress really need to be more fitted through the body to be attractive on her. Big and baggy makes you look bigger.

    Emilio's dress had some technique flaws, but it was exactly what she wanted.

  6. #21
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    My sewing skills can best be described as self-taught, and I sew only for my dollies, so take my thoughts with a grain of salt. When I think of the singers who are curvier, such as Aretha Franklin, they tend to wear drapier garments, often with several gauzy layers, which means that Ulli actually would have managed to craft a flattering outfit for her. But another way to go might be something more structured, sleeveless but with a v neck. (Not a deep v--not to show cleavage but to lengthen the neck.) I'm not sure that Anthony Ryan would have had the skill to go either of those ways, because I'm sure that's not something people learn in design school. His idea about how to use the ombre fabric, darker on top and lightening downward, was very clever.

    Heyang, that's a good point about how some of the celebrities are more involved. I don't know the extent of involvement of everyone you mentioned. I know the Olsens have a lot to do with the business itself, being apparently rather savvy businesspeople by now, but I know nothing about their clothes-making savvy. (I wouldn't want to judge them on the grounds of what they wear themselves; they're so petite, and their clothes often swallow them up!) Could you tell us more about the ladies you mentioned and how they take part in their businesses? I'm always curious about how those things work. Some celebrities really work to learn the other field they lend their name to, and it's interesting to see that.

    Dee, I'm glad you remember that scene, too. I was so impressed with Michael's self-restraint. He spoke the truth without any hint of trash-talking or snideness. I was also a bit taken aback at Sheree's lack of follow-through.

  7. #22
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    Here's some looks from Holmes and Yang

    http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/sprin...otos/gallery/1

    From what I know of the Oleson's, they are pretty active in establishing the theme and look of their clothing lines - selecting materials, etc. I don't get the sense that they actually put pencil to paper and sketch, but that they explain to designers what they envision and the designers sketch. Then they collaborate on the details for manufacturing specs, etc. They aren't necessarily what I would wear either. I believe they have several lines.

    http://olsenboye.com/

    http://elizabethandjames.us/

    BTW, a lot of big names have designers who work for them. I work for a PVH - we own Calvin Klein, Bass, Izod, Van Heusen and Tommy Hilfiger and own the manufacturing licenses for Geoffrey Beene, and other brands. Neither CK nor Tommy are involved in the day-to-day design work. At this point, Tommy is the 'face' of the brand and the company must adhere to his requirements for the theme of the line (preppy with a twist.) but he is not actively involved in the design process. Francisco Costa is the designer who manages CK Womenswear Collection - what you see on the runways at Fashion Week.

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    Thanks so much for the links and inside information! That's about six times what I knew before reading your post.

    I just watched what I suppose is the semifinal of Project Runway All-Stars. Ulli must be the luckiest contestant ever: she has gotten to go to Paris twice.

    I won't say more until some more of you check in after seeing this week's episode. To me, the garments were all lovely; there was nothing I disliked. The final twist brought out something unbelievably impressive in the contestants. Everyone, please report soon on your reactions; I can't wait to hear what you think.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Olympia View Post
    Thanks so much for the links and inside information! That's about six times what I knew before reading your post.

    I just watched what I suppose is the semifinal of Project Runway All-Stars. Ulli must be the luckiest contestant ever: she has gotten to go to Paris twice.

    I won't say more until some more of you check in after seeing this week's episode. To me, the garments were all lovely; there was nothing I disliked. The final twist brought out something unbelievably impressive in the contestants. Everyone, please report soon on your reactions; I can't wait to hear what you think.
    I thought Emilio's seemed heavy and bulky and not young at all. AR's was meh. Too much black. Uli's...I don't know. And Joshua...I liked what he did with it for the "twist", but the original, not so much. Maybe if the floral had been a smaller print, it could have worked.

  10. #25
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    I am a bit tired of black dresses too, but I loved AR's dress because of the lines. The front panel and especially the collar really attracted me. Wish he'd used burgundy or aubergine or midnight blue instead, but the dress itself was lovely and showed his ability to cut and tailor (or whatever they call it in a formal gown).

    Wasn't it amazing what Joshua and Ulli did for the "twist"? The thing that gets me about Ulli is that she always seems so calm. She seems to pull this stuff out of nowhere, and she never looks stressed or sleep-deprived or anxious. Also, I'm impressed at how much she seems to have learned since her first stint on PR. She always did flowing print dresses the first time around. Now she seems to have acquired a whole raft of other techniques. I'd love for her to win, though I suspect Anthony Ryan will. He's certainly deserving of it, and I wouldn't be disappointed if he did pull it off.

  11. #26
    Figure Skating Is A Dangerous Sport Dee4707's Avatar
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    Olympia, I recorded the show and the last few minutes was cut off. Didn't Josh get the boot?? How did the judges come to the conclusion??? I actually liked both of their new designs, I thought Uli's was the best. I didn't like Josh's original design maybe if the top was all black lace I would've like it better. Emilio's dress was super constructed. His darts and seaming all matched....how difficult. I used to have arguments with this guy at work because he would judge based on what he thought looked good. I said but you missed the detail and work What a great challenge...I would love to have seen Alexander McQueen's challenge when they said he did the same thing.

    So Olympia, how did the judges come to their conclusion???

  12. #27
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    Overall, I thought they all had good concepts.

    I agree that Emilio partly won because of the quality of the craftsmanship. That dress looked really well made and the seaming and lines were interesting, although it wasn't a 'young' dress, but that doesn't mean that it's not couture.

    I didn't care for the all black of AR's dress either, but, again, it was really well made. As the judges mentioned, you couldn't see the lining even though it was lace.

    I thought Uli's couture dress was good from the front, but there was something off about the back.

    I agreed with Emilio about Josh's couture dress - the material for the top and bottom were just too different and the material for the skirt didn't say 'expensive'. The 2 materials did look better together in the 2nd look which was for a younger person, which made the print more appropriate imho.

    For me, Uli was safe because the over all looks of her 2 pieces were cohesive individually and together. Whereas Josh's pieces were cohesive together but the 1st piece wasn't as cohesive as an individual item.

    I really don't remember AR from his 1st season, while I do remember Emilio and Uli. For some reason, I don't think Emilio will win, but I think it's a toss up between AR and Uli for the win.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee4707 View Post
    Olympia, I recorded the show and the last few minutes was cut off. Didn't Josh get the boot?? How did the judges come to the conclusion??? I actually liked both of their new designs, I thought Uli's was the best. I didn't like Josh's original design maybe if the top was all black lace I would've like it better. Emilio's dress was super constructed. His darts and seaming all matched....how difficult. I used to have arguments with this guy at work because he would judge based on what he thought looked good. I said but you missed the detail and work What a great challenge...I would love to have seen Alexander McQueen's challenge when they said he did the same thing.

    So Olympia, how did the judges come to their conclusion???
    I think they decided that Ulli's two looks went better together and were more original and exciting. The judges didn't really comment specifically at the end. They just voted by paper ballot: each wrote a name down on his or her scorecard, and the votes were tallied. Beforehand, Cynthia Rowley said laughingly that Ulli's dress was a big "[bleep] you" because the judges had expressed a dislike of the lining, so Ulli made her second dress entirely out of the lining.

  14. #29
    Figure Skating Is A Dangerous Sport Dee4707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heyang
    I didn't care for the all black of AR's dress either, but, again, it was really well made. As the judges mentioned, you couldn't see the lining even though it was lace.
    For some reason, I thought AR said there wasn't any lining.


    Quote Originally Posted by Olympia View Post
    Beforehand, Cynthia Rowley said laughingly that Ulli's dress was a big "[bleep] you" because the judges had expressed a dislike of the lining, so Ulli made her second dress entirely out of the lining.
    I loved that even though I don't necessarily use that kind of language. The look on Uli's face was OMG. I think after that was said...the recording ended. Did they say who voted for who??? I would think it was unanimous for Uli.

  15. #30
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    I don't use that language either, but it did work well, didn't it? I don't recall that they said who voted how, but I'm just glad they kept Ulli.

    Like you, I also remember that Anthony Ryan said that there wasn't a lining. I think the guy is a really wizard technician, which is one reason I'm so glad he's lasted until the final. Between him and Ulli, I'd be happy for a tie.

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