FWIIW, very simple modifications to the insole, that you can do by adding a little tape, or sanding, can have essentially the same effect as moving ("offsetting") the blade sideways a bit. Because all you are mostly doing is changing the weight distribution.
Re-mounting your own blades is a bit of a challenge, though some of us have done it.
I do not know enough about Jackson boots to say whether the fit is similar for other Jackson boot models. And it is true that fit tends to be more critical with stiffer boots, because they can't be modified as much. Nonetheless, minor modifications to the insole, as well as punches you can do yourself with a ball and ring pliers and a hair drier (after letting your pro shop do the heat molding) can usually improve fit - but as I said, the toebox is very hard to change much, especially on higher level boots.
It's a shame you don't have a better relationship with your local skate tech.

But it is good that you like the job she does at heat molding and sharpening. If Jackson didn't accept the returned boots, or if she had to pay return shipping, she took a pretty big loss on that. But most pro shops, AFAIK, make most of their money on sharpening. So maybe she will make some of it back over time. And in all fairness, fitting skates exactly right seems to be very difficult, in no small part because boot makers aren't all that consistent in the way they make boots. What was the change she tried to make that she messed up?
Perhaps Jackson Elles fit you right in part because they aren't very high level - they are soft enough to conform more to your feet than high level boots would.
Are you using the hand hone to actually sharpen, or just using it to re-straighten the edges? (Edges tend to get knocked sideways (inwards or outwards, depending...), especially if you don't put on blade guards before stepping off-ice. I think a lot of the time people just need to straighten the edges rather than re-sharpen them.) I.E., what is your honing technique?
If you don't happen to use blade guards that way, it's a good idea, though I suggest you put on one guard, step with it off-ice, then the other, rather than trying to balance on the ice wearing guards on both blades at once, especially if using hard guards.) That way you need fewer sharpenings and honings. And again, I suggest you dry off your blades after you take them off, and don't store them in hard guards between skating sessions, because edges last longer that way too. Even a little moisture, or a little dirt inside the hard guard channels, messes up the edges.
Many skaters who don't have to travel great distances, and pay the costs of doing so, to find a great skate tech, don't appreciate just how hard it is to deal with that. I'm glad that you have found a practical way to do so. I don't know what to say about whether you should try to get them re-heat-molded. There is a risk that that will make them too soft, or widen them too much elsewhere. (AFAICT, heat molding on Jackson Freestyles only widens them - it can't make them thinner.)
Were I you, to make more space for the toes, I would try one of the things I suggested before - remove the insoles, trace them out on something a bit thinner, cut that something to the same outside shape, and use the thinner insoles you create that way in place of the old insoles. That just might make you enough space to help. But keep the old insoles, in case you don't like the results. And I admit it will create a looser fit elsewhere. (I assume you don't feel up to cutting something like a skin-safe closed cell foam in a three dimensional manner, thinning them at the toes, but not so much in the rest of the skate, so they aren't looser fitting there.)
However, that might not be enough. Especially if what is really happening is that the stiffening material inside your toeboxes is breaking down, and is pinching your toes when you put weight on your toepick.